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The piles of Kislis being offered before Deepankha Yatra |
Deepankha Yatra, peace march, one more adventurous time in my life;60
km walk since 2am,1st Kartik till 1pm 2nd Kartik. People
approximate about 30 hours walk, but for me it takes almost 35 hours. Every
people take part enthusiastically. Their enthusiasm and encouragement motivates
us to move ahead too. The Offering of Kisli prior, a day before was like a
commitment that one was going to attend the pious journey.
Dipankha Yatra (also spelt Deepankha Yatra, Dipankar
Yatra) is a pious journey that takes place around the heart of Nepal "The
Kathmandu Valley". Devotees walk through the journey to 131
religious destinations within 2 days. The occurance of the Yatra (Travel)is decided by the astrological
calender. Dipankha Yatra is mostly celebrated by Buddhist as well as Hindu
Newars of valley, the followers are guided by Gurjus of Newar community. It
takes place only when the following five events fall on the same day:
1. Sauryamas Sankranti (First day in solar calendar)
2. Chandramas Purnima (Full moon)
3. Rewati Nachetra (An astrological event)
4. Harshan Yog (An astrological event)
5. Chandra Graham (Lunar Eclipse)
2. Chandramas Purnima (Full moon)
3. Rewati Nachetra (An astrological event)
4. Harshan Yog (An astrological event)
5. Chandra Graham (Lunar Eclipse)
It is believed that a single step in the
Yatra equals the Punya gained upon offering 1 tola of gold.
The procession begins at Nagbahal,
Patan at dawn and ends at Mahalaxmisthan
the following day.
There
are different legendary tales as to how the procession began in the 17th century. One legend says the procession began during the Malla period, mainly to ease the then
brewing tensions between Hindus and Buddhists in the valley on the issue of
forced conversion. Another legend
says Shakyamuni
Buddha was born in Nepal in the form of a blue bull. The bull went round all the places and finally
disappeared at a place called Nagbahal
in Lalitpur. People started worshipping this idol and began the procession
considering it as a disciple of Gautam Buddha.
NAGBAHAL DEEPANKHA |
I
enjoyed my journey with Jaya, Prashneel ji, Kriti, Shristi and
Norin. After offering Kisli, I stayed at Rabina’s home since I had
to wake up early and attend the procession since 2 am. Aunt humbly instructs and
helps me to work out for procession. As the procession starts, the long route
begin with the large mass of people walking like a march pass. We too joined them.
The whole way continues following the march and offering the Jwou/Charia/offering
of pooja like barley or rice at all the 131 religious temples and
monuments.
The
devotes in the dark night ,with the passionate walk starts from Nagbahal of Lalitpur and moves ahead to
Krishna Mandir (Mangalbazar), Tangal, Maha
Laxmisthan and Sikhidegal
respectively.
JAL BINAYAK |
The
journey starts being more interestingly after that when there starts being like
a jam of the crowded devotees in the congested road. People start searching and
walking through the shortcuts and we were following them. Staying over an hour
to cross the bridge of Bungmati, and
crossing the cold water of river. Slippery way to Khokhana and the muddy way were impressive. The shortcut way all
over the dhan baris (field of rice).At dawn, when we look behind, it seems like
the line of small ants, were the devotees on line uncountable…more than thousands
in number. Visiting the temples including Sano Khokhana, the procession was being too enjoying. It was almost 8:30 -9 am when
we reached Jal Binayak.
The
way from Khokana, we were quite
amazed by the village people offering us tea, juice, Glucose water, asking for
rest and rest rooms with humble care and charmness. It’s like a feeling of
being pleased then. It is said that the devotees of this Yatra earns Punya
equals to donating 1 tola (11 gram) of gold and the serves of these devotees
earns Punya too.
On
the way to Kraya Binayak we also
rest on, enjoying the ping time with full refreshment too. After visiting Kraya
Binayak and the high hills of Chovar, we went a long way, crosses Sanepa, there
were volunteers on the whole route for guidance. The signs of the Yatra and the
route as well as the map in our hand help us a lot. In addition the resting areas,
first aid camps refreshment serve by people like glucose water, tea biscuits,
lemon water, even lemon with salt…well refreshing one too encouraged us a lot.
Our refreshment via Ping tym |
We
reached Pachali almost at 12 noon;
many people were starting to have legaches, blisters and sole pain. Many were
served with soak hot water and camp care, which helped them a lot. All devotees
continue the walking respectively with Teku, Marutole, Tankeshwor, and Tahachal
with the constant enthusiasm.
BUDDHA BIHAR AT SWOYAMBHU |
The
Volunteers helped us. The devotees were offered halls, polo, juice biscuits and
so on. The march moves on to Chhauni,
Kinubahi, Sitapaila, Ichangu Narayan and Halchowk. As the hills of Chovar was impressive with the view of Kathmandu
valley at morning. Here starts the way of hills of Sitapaila and Ichangu, the
journey starts being tough. It almost 3 hills we had to climb up and down. Many
devotees complain of leg pain, cramps, seeking for pain killers and crepe
bandaging now.
As
the journey proceeds, reaching the temple/monument ahead out of 131, are
becoming more and more precious for us. One more hill of Swoyambhunath was still ahead. We were being tired and my leg ache
was being more intense from then. With periodical rest and slow walk, we
reached at the top of Swoyambhunath at
almost 6-7 pm and at Swobha Bhagwati
at 8pm.
We
had some snacks over there. Prashneel ji was quite encouraging
so does the appreciable Jaya, and the enthusiastic girls in our
group. The crowded march of devotees seems thinner now. We were amazed to see
the minimal devotees and afraid too about how could we get the walk overnight.
With full enthusiasm, despite leg ache we all moved on. After some pace, Jaya
and Prashneel
ji were missed. Assertively thinking they might catch us later, we
moved on. There was something like fright of not seeing other devotees we move
on faster, well I just can’t say which way comes when at that time. We just
followed on the way we met volunteers.
DEVI TEMPLE |
The
way of Chhertrapati, Thamel, Shorakhutte, Mehypii, Samakhushi and Ranibari. We went on and were relaxed to see the
other devotees tired similar as us and walking and resting in first aid camps.It’s
almost 11-12 midnight. The road seems dark clear but safe as there were
volunteers and police posting for showing us the way of Yatra.
The
role of the volunteer, Police and the people were really great and
admirable. The probably will receive the pious merit for their deeds; serving
the devotees. The health camp, first aid treatment, hot water soaks, massages, bandaging,
health aids; even lemon and lemon juice helps a lot. The most I was impressed
was of their heartily servings, charming face and encouraging words.
Departing
the forest of Raniban, walking with painful
legs we moved towards Lazimpat and
Narayanhiti Durbar. I had never seen the busy road of Kathmandu so silence
till date.
The
way on to Nagpokhari, Naxal, Bhatbhateni
and on to Dhumbarai. It was almost
1am.We were too tiresome, we had met Jaya and Prashneel ji again and again
and depart again. The situation was quite hard. None, among four of us, me,Kriti,
Shristi and Norin, where at the state of walking faster or even to
anticipate how long we had to walk to reach Boudha and take rest. With harder step we reached Chabahil Ghanesthan.
Mahankal and Boudha were
far. It was true that even a step was harder for us to take. But motivationally
we were able to reach there. There were a numbers of devotees resting there. It
was almost 2 am. The first group, who had reach ether in first hours, were
preparing to be ready for depart for continuing walk.
I
felt so hard that there wasn’t health camp and I was feeling so sick, tired,
feeling like heat, feverish, even the oral painkiller isn’t working, unable to
rest neither to move an inch of my leg. Jaya and Prashneel ji reached
about 3 am. I asked for paracetamol and moov spray from them. After having it
and bandaging, it felt a relief at almost 4 am. Unfortunately we couldn’t even
rest for half an hour, The Deepankha Guruju asked everyone to
wake up and prepare for Yatra at
4:30 am.
It
seems like we had relieved a lot from yesterday’s painful leg. We depart from
there at 5:30 am. Well, it seems so obvious that people will easily recognize
us as Deepankha Devotees with the clumsy walk and words “Aaiya” and “Aouuch” while stepping up and down. The gait of our walking seems
funnier for us as well.
Moving
the way to Jaya Bhageswori, Pashupatinath,
Gujheshwori, Bankali and Pingalasthan. Norin,
Kriti and Shristi had quite quick pace, so rest three of us were on our
way slowly. Jaya was supportive and encouraging, Prahneel ji was motivate
even with such moor condition of swollen legs and me irritating always asking
to move on with them. Moving down the way to Bhimsengola, people were asking us for tea, biscuits, their humble requests,
and other congratulating for our walks seems so motivational.
The
police and Deepankha Gurujus were
also there encouraging. Down the way to Shantinagar,
taking rest and moving on towards Koteshwor
Mahadev and continued our procession. Reached back to Lalitpur district, passes over Shankhamul,
Manohora River. All the way seems near but twisted to visit these monuments.
After we reached Balkumari, we felt
that we missed the way; it’s really obvious that one feels annoying for oneself
while we felt lost after long walk. But it felt funnier while remembering now. Anyways,
we finally catch up the way sooner.
The
volunteers and the local people
including the first aiders’ servers were always there to help us. The
jwau/charai on the ways, seems like, the pathfinder that we were on the right
way. Batuk Bhairab was our second
last place. After then, we had Sagun from the Guruju and greet
appreciably.
The
last walk of the Yatra towards Mahalaxmisthan
was with the eagerness that we were almost near to completion of this pious
procession. When we reached there, we felt so delighted, free, blank minded… no
stress, no tension, sense of accomplishment and simply calmness. All the
yesterday pain wasn’t there. We were just happy with tiresome state and
charming face. Then, Back to Batuk Bhairab
where we received Sagun and Tika from family/guardians.
Here
ends the wonderful Deepankha Yatra
Of my life with sweet and best memories, I ever had. Really as Jaya
have said, it had become a motivational
deed, I am inspired to move on ahead.